Hello,
The worst part of my game is fairway woods and a lack of accuracy, no questions about that. I've been going to all the demo days, hitting this year's new equipment offerings and three manufacturers have stood out including Titleist (suprised me greatly). I hit the 910F quite well and they felt GREAT but like many I struggle with getting a 3 wood off the ground where as I seem to hit a 4 wood fine. However, with the adustability Titleist offers, I realize I could increase the loft on a 3 wood from 15 degrees to 16.5 whereas a 4 wood has 17 degrees.
I think the 3 wood has a slightly larger clubhead but the 4 wood's shaft is 1/2 an inch shorter. Which club would likely help me hit more fairways off the tee? Which club would be easier to manage as I try to hit draws and fades off the tee?
Thank you all for your insights
Dan W Hello, The worst part of my game is fairway woods and a lack of accuracy, no questions about that. I've been going to all the demo days, hitting this year's new equipment offerings and three manufacturers have stood out including Titleist (suprised me greatly). I hit the 910F quite well and they felt GREAT but like many I struggle with getting a 3 wood off the ground where as I seem to hit a 4 wood fine. However, with the adustability Titleist offers, I realize I could increase the loft on a 3 wood from 15 degrees to 16.5 whereas a 4 wood has 17 degrees. I think the 3 wood has a slightly larger clubhead but the 4 wood's shaft is 1/2 an inch shorter. Which club would likely help me hit more fairways off the tee? Which club would be easier to manage as I try to hit draws and fades off the tee? Thank you all for your insights
I would personally go with a 4 wood. Not much of a difference in distance (about 5-7 yards). You'll have more opportunities to use a 4 wood and, because of the shorter shaft, more control. I haven't carried a 3 wood since 2006 (when I started playing again and when I changed from steel shafted persimmons) and my main issue is that I would either slice them or balloon a dead straight shot; quite frankly, I hit an 18* 5 wood just as far and a 43 inch fairway wood is just way too long. I had a 975F 16.5 and 20.5 (4W and 7W) reshafted to DG R300 and I played with them for 3 years; had no problem hitting off the grass.
You can also set the 4 wood to 18* (that is what the old school loft of a 4W was).
I remember in 2007 my dad telling me that some of the teaching pros recommended a 4 and 7 wood vice a 3 and 5 wood (IMHO, 7 woods are the best thing since sliced bread). This leaves room for more wedges.
My bag currrently has a 5-18 wood and 4-21 hybrid for long distance needs (I set the length to 42" on the wood and 40" on the hybrid); recently got em new on clearance with some trade ins. I can swing away with both and nail them on the fairway (the 4H plays more like a short fairway wood and I hit it just as far as my old 7W).
A common dilemma to the amateur golfer. If your swing speed is likely to decline in the next 5-10 years (if you are over 45), go with the 17 degree club. Unless you decide to spend more time to improve your swing, go with the 17 degree. The shorter the club length, the more accurate you will be with your contact. The 16.5 degree adjustment won't improve your accuracy with the longer length club. Every good contact with a 4W over a muffed 3W will have the potential to save you a stroke. 10 even 15 yards more with a 3W will not likely save you a stroke, just one club shorter.
I also found a 980F 15* pretty easy to hit (I also had mine shortened by 1/2"). Not the greatest distance (I got about 190 out of it most of the time but hit it 230 one time). It worked with my two Louisvilles (5/21 and 10/28 persimmons) and shot 42 for 9 with that combo. The 980F 19* was also pretty easy to hit off a hard lie.
~42" is a good length for a fairway wood. 43" is just way too long. Probably explains why I could hit a 3 wood so well in the old days.
My two cents is keep an open mind and try both at the fitting booth (the launch monitor/simulator is a good start and I used this in determining whether to buy a 16.5* 4W, 18* 5W or 18* 3H; the 18* 5W won the contest). The mat is pretty equivalent for hitting off a tight lie (I have something I call the "Sorrento Canyon Test" where I hit a bucket of golf balls at that driving range; it has some pretty thin mats). If one can absolutely CRUSH a 3 wood off the deck, more power; however, a majority of us would fare much better with a 42" 17 or 18* fairway wood. You may find you have an ability to ANNIHILATE the more lofted club and actually hit it farther. In San Diego, CA, for instance, a 3 wood is almost useless for anything other than tee shots on a few of the courses (they are cropped pretty close and the ground is like clay).
Hey Dan,
I would go with the 4 wood. With the combination of loft, shaft length, and launch, everything should equate to better numbers. In other words, you'll get it off the ground easier, you'll get more distance (if a three wood is a struggle), you'll be more consistent, more confident, and you'll play better. I play a 15* 3 wood, but its at 16.5 so it plays as a 4 wood. In addition to the loft, I have a hooking issue, so the extra adjustability gives me a bit more fade, causing only a soft draw. If you're looking for shape, loft = spin, spin = shape. Everything else is by personal preference. Hope this helps!
-Nunzio
The verdict is pretty much close to unanimous. There are probably a couple here and there in TT that can hit a 13.5 or 15 wood off the deck but a good majority of us fare better with a 17 or 18* wood in the bag. Part of playing better golf is working smarter and not harder.