Jay Sevilla What would be more practical change the shafts on my AP2's or sell them maybe and buy a set of AP1's? On my driver, 3 and 5 wood I use a stiff shaft and seem to hit them the averacge distance. Why is that?
What would be more practical change the shafts on my AP2's or sell them maybe and buy a set of AP1's? On my driver, 3 and 5 wood I use a stiff shaft and seem to hit them the averacge distance. Why is that?
Typical labor for reshafting is $17 per club.
Cost of the shaft would $15 per for Dynamic Gold R300.
Grips are about $5 each for the standard Lamkin Crossline or Golf Pride Tour Velvet.
Ferrules are about $5 per dozen.
Assuming you have the repair person do the reshaft - that would be $37 per club. The cost of the AP1s new is $1000 and the resale value of AP2 712 is $655 as per pga.com (the trade in value is $375).
If you choose the DIY route - need to buy a propane torch, epoxy, tubing cutter, grip solvent, a reaming brush (to clean the hosel of any epoxy) and grip tape - probably about $50 total.
As far as the stiff shafts - you probably carry shorter vs a regular shaft but roll more.
The MSRP (manufacture suggested retail price) for a reshaft to a standard steel shaft such as DYG or DYG XP or NS pro 105T would be $50 per club, and we would recommend checking with your local pro shop for pricing as it may be different than MSRP..
Cathi @TeamTitleist 1-888-TITLEIST
Cathi, Titleist Club Concierge Jay Sevilla What would be more practical change the shafts on my AP2's or sell them maybe and buy a set of AP1's? On my driver, 3 and 5 wood I use a stiff shaft and seem to hit them the averacge distance. Why is that? The MSRP (manufacture suggested retail price) for a reshaft to a standard steel shaft such as DYG or DYG XP or NS pro 105T would be $50 per club, and we would recommend checking with your local pro shop for pricing as it may be different than MSRP..
That was pretty close to what the local shops would charge - the going rate is $17 per club for labor and Golfsmith's list price for DG R300 is $14.99 per shaft. Lamkin and Golf Pride grips are approx $4.25 each. The Golf Galaxy price for a Titleist Tour Velvet grip is $5.99.
What are the lightest regular flex steel shafts available? Can I save the grips? Is reshafting worth it performance wise? I got fitted and they said my clubs need to be 1* upright is that worth all the fuzz or should I just adjust the way I swing?
Thanks,
Jay
UNCUT RIFLE PROJECT X 5.0 3-PW Steel Iron Shafts
Condition: Like-New. Might have occasional minor scratches.
Flex: Regular 5.0
UNCUT Lengths: 37", 37.5", 38", 38.5", 39", 39.5", 40", 40.5"
Tip Size: 0.355 Taper Tip
Pal, use other irons, but get Vokey customized wedges, and everything else Titleist. That's what I do and I may say without fear of contradiction, I have a perfect set of clubs.
Jay Sevilla What are the lightest regular flex steel shafts available? Can I save the grips? Is reshafting worth it performance wise? I got fitted and they said my clubs need to be 1* upright is that worth all the fuzz or should I just adjust the way I swing? Thanks, Jay
They have shafts as low as 95g. AWT Steel or Apollo 95 come to mind and I believe that TT has a couple 95 gram shafts. There is about a 3 swingweight point difference between a 95g shaft and 125g.
Grips - It would be nice to salvage but generally they don't. Also, if you are going with an ultralight shaft, consider a lighter grip to maintain swing weight. The standard rubber grip is 52 grams. Winn Excel RF standard is 42 (increases swingweight by 2 points). Winn Lite Dri Tac is 23 grams (increases swingweight by 6 points - this is for people who have to use short shafts). Important for me because I use midsize grips on my longer clubs and the rubber grip is 67 grams (kills swingweight by 3 points).
You should adjust the clubs to the way you swing and not vice versa. I have my irons 1* upright but -1/4" length. All my wedges are +1* and standard length. My driver is 44.5" with a lie angle of 58*. 5W set at D3 with a shaft length of 41.5" (lie angle 59.5*). Too flat of a lie angle leads to a lot of problems, the least of which is back pain after extended practice. You also can lose your balance after awhile (and that is what leads to shanking). When you compensate for a flat lie angle by using a flatter swing, it leads to screaming hooks (especially if the lie angle is over 1* flat).
I had been playing standard lie clubs since 1972. When I took up golf again in 2006, I found the shaft lengths too long with graphite shafted woods and hybrids, along with hitting a pull or snap hook. I also would get back pain after an extended session at the range. I got a tip about standing more upright in 2008 and that helped with the woods and hybrids - started hitting them straight; however, I started having problems with short irons. I then got into clubmaking (constructed a set of irons in 2009) and found my lie angles were 1* more upright than standard (I played with the do it yourself irons through mid 2011 and did reasonably well with them). I also remembered that my height was 6'1" during an insurance physical in 2005 (I had been 5'11 3/4" since high school). I've been playing to a 12 handicap since 2009 with such a simple thing as proper clubfitting (this was despite a so-so middle game).
Christopher D Pal, use other irons, but get Vokey customized wedges, and everything else Titleist. That's what I do and I may say without fear of contradiction, I have a perfect set of clubs.
My bag is mixed (Burner HT Draw driver, 910F 19* fww, Superfast 2.0 27H, Louisville HL3 34* persimmon hybrid, AP1 8-PW, Vokey SM c-c 50-08 and 54-14, SM4 60-10 and White Hot 7H putter). It is all dialed in and streamlined. I hit the 34H just as far as a 6 iron and can hit 7 iron distance by choking down slightly and I have been carrying it in my bag for 2 years. I have the AP1 6 and 7 iron available but am spoiled with the 34H. I may consider a 910D 12* driver and a 910H 24* hybrid next year at tax time.
We do carry a NS pro 850 which weighs 87 grams in a reg and 91 in a stiff, the NS pro 950 which weighs 95 in a reg and 98 in a stiff.
I have never been fitted for clubs. I just like Titleist since my family use Titleist clubs, my dad is 77 and my uncle is 85. I like this AP2's I used to own a 910 D2 driver until I found it to be about 46" long. So I sold it and bought a TM R9 TP which was 45" long and I can hit it without the slice but now it usually draws. My irons I usually hit a slice unless I adjust my hands for a flatter lie (hand closer to the body and spine angle lower).
Here is what is currently in my bag:
TM R9 TP, 10.5*, Standard Length, Stiff flex Fubuki shaft
TM R9, 3 wood, stiff flex Fujikura, standard length
TM R9, 5 wood, Stiff flex Fujikura, standard length
4-PW Titleist AP2, 5.5 Project x, standard length and lie
52* Titleist TVD design wedge
56* Titleist TVD design wedge
60* Titleist TVD design wedge
LH Scotty Camerom Newport 2 putter, 45" long (I think it is still to short after a few putts my back hurts but I do not want to change the swing weight)
I am waiting for the 913 driver to come out.
Jay Sevilla I have never been fitted for clubs. I just like Titleist since my family use Titleist clubs, my dad is 77 and my uncle is 85. I like this AP2's I used to own a 910 D2 driver until I found it to be about 46" long. So I sold it and bought a TM R9 TP which was 45" long and I can hit it without the slice but now it usually draws. My irons I usually hit a slice unless I adjust my hands for a flatter lie (hand closer to the body and spine angle lower). Here is what is currently in my bag: TM R9 TP, 10.5*, Standard Length, Stiff flex Fubuki shaft TM R9, 3 wood, stiff flex Fujikura, standard length TM R9, 5 wood, Stiff flex Fujikura, standard length 4-PW Titleist AP2, 5.5 Project x, standard length and lie 52* Titleist TVD design wedge 56* Titleist TVD design wedge 60* Titleist TVD design wedge LH Scotty Camerom Newport 2 putter, 45" long (I think it is still to short after a few putts my back hurts but I do not want to change the swing weight) I am waiting for the 913 driver to come out.
$5 per club to have lie angle adjusted on the irons and wedges. Too flat = slice with normal stance. If you have a low stance with a lot of knee flex to compensate for a flat lie, you get more distance on a pulled shot. You shouldn't change your swing to fit the club- the club should fit your swing. My 6 and 7 irons are 1/2* upright and the 8 iron thru wedges are 1* upright; I hit the ball dead straight. Being properly fit has dropped my golf score from mid 90s to mid 80s.
$20 for a putter fitting and well worth it. I'm 6'1" and my putter is 35" with 2* upright. I save 2-3 strokes per round on putting.
Your hands are supposed to hang straight down or maybe slightly forward (more so for woods).
The reason you were slicing the 46" driver because you probably were hitting closer to the heel (it is a push-slice). Titleist standard driver length is 45". TM is 45 3/4" (I cut my Burner down to 44.5" and used a Dri Tac light grip to restore swingweight).