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I tried an adjustable driver the other day (not Titleist) and, although I hit it well, thought that it was a bad idea to adjust the club to a inconsistent swing rather than tuning the swing to hit the club predictably. But it got me thinking; It would be nice to have an adjustable putter!
I would like the ability to adjust the loft, and stroke angle of the putter - this could definitely come in handy when dealing with certain green speeds and conditions that call for a slower or greater ball speed off the face. I know there there are some putters that allow you to change the insert, and Scotty will adjust the weighting for us, but this would take it further.
Are you listening Mr. Cameron?
I like the idea of being able to adjust putter loft & lie and I'm surprised nobody has done that yet. I also think that the adjustable drivers are here to stay. Most weekend golfers don't have the time to build their swing around their driver. So being able to adjust fade & draw bias to correct for an imperfect swing is a definite appeal for the masses. Personally, I like being able to adjust the loft more than the fade/draw. The adjustable weighting is another nice feature so you can tune it perfectly depending on the shaft weight you like to play. I could be totally wrong, but I don't think the adjustable features will be going away any time soon.
I think they are here to stay. If nothing else, it should make club fitting and club testing easier. It's a lot easier to get a club dialed in to your swing with the adjustable clubs. I don't think the the intent of the adjustable driver is for pre-round adjustments.
I recently purchased a 913 D2 driver and initially found that the gentle draw I produced from my old driver had turned into a gentle fade. On an A1 setting, I was getting more carry, but losing overall yardage from lack of roll. After changing to a B2 setting, I immediately returned to a right to left shot shape (right handed) and gained 10-15 yards after getting adjusted to the shaft. This was something I never could have done prior to the adjustable clubs. I'm aware that even woods can be adjusted, but I would never let some attach a bending bar to a new $300 driver.
This is technology that really benefits the average golfer that typically does not have access to a tour van or skilled clubmakers that can customize a club to the golfers' taste. Depending on the course I play, I can now change the setting if I need to use a certain shot shape, even if just on the range before the round. I left golf for 15 years, and this new technology is the biggest improvement I see in golf today. The only complaint I have with new clubs are the stronger lofts, making it harder to find proper wedges to cover the yardage closer to the hole. My current set of irons does not offer a gap wedge, and finding a good 90-120 yard club is proving to be difficult.
Steve has some excellent comments regarding using the adjustable features of the club to dial it in. Being able to change the loft face angle of the club very easily is a great advantage of the adjustable drivers and woods. Personally, I use this adjustment to get the proper shotshape for my individual swing. It lets the regular amateur golfer tinker with their clubs a litle to really get them dialed in. Once the club is set to my specs, I generally do not change it.
One note when ordering a new club from Titleist, be sure to specify the settings (i.e., "C3") you use on any adjustable club you are ordering. When you specify the setting, they will install the sharft with the graphics down. Otherwise, they will be down in the standard setting but may be to the side once you adjust it to your preferred setting.
I love the ability to adjust shafts and flight characteristics. Windy days and a more penetrating flight is needed no problem, wet fairways and more carry is needed no problem. I have had to adjust my shaft to accommodate increasing swing speed and was able to keep the driver head I was accustomed too.
I know it's not the arrow but the Indian that produces better play. but every now and then, it's nice to have the ability to make changes when needed.
Steve; Find yourself a good Titleist fitter (Cathi on this site can help you find one near you if you don't know one) and get fitted for a new set of Titleist irons. (A Titleist fitter can tell you which irons you need) You can get them custom made with up to +/- 2* loft from standard, and Titleist does offer a gap wedge. It will be money well spent, and I promise you'll never be sorry.
Excellent point. I had not thought of that, I usually change the factory grip, and although I really like the Titleist logo grip, Golf Pride makes a nice 360 grip without graphics that works well on adjustable clubs. I install my own grips (small hands) and use a undersized grip by Golf Pride that is ribbed.
While I have never noticed one on a Titleist club, it is shocking to me, the number of factory installed grips (especially cally) I find in stores that are crooked. I understand that almost all clubs now have round grips installed from the factory, but really nothing looks worse to me than a new set of grips that are installed off center. I know they have to put on hundreds at the factory (probably in a short amount of time), but who wants to fork out $300 for a driver or $150 for a wedge that looks like a 6 year old installed the grip?
They have a benefit. The adjustable lie angle is the most prime - take a 5 wood (42" is standard length); TM are somewhere around 59.5* lie angle and Callie are about 57.5 and this is close to the adjustability range of the 910F 19* (59.5 = 1.5 upright, 58 = std, 57.25 = .75* flat).
If I took a TM 5 wood I could hit it straight, whereas a Callie would tend to fade.
I've established that my lie angle is 59.5 so D2, A2, D3 or A3 are my settings. I hit it dead straight with D3. A2 and C2 fade slightly and the other issue is that I tend to balloon it off the tee with these. A3 produces a draw off the tee but is hard to hit off the fairway vs D3. D3 gives me the most solid feel.
Also D3 is good for my distance gaps because I carry a 23* 9 wood and 26* 5H.