Jakes D

So in the right combination with the right player, they are great, but they are not for everyone. Our view is that people play them to stiff. Dont hard step or soft step them!

 

The bit about the right combination for the right player can be said of any shaft, not just the c-taper. There is no "magical" shaft that will make any player better. As for your statement about not hard stepping or soft stepping them, the question that I have for you is why not? If you want to dial in a shaft to a specific FCM, that would be the only way. Or if you prefer the weight of a 130g shaft (c-taper X) but want it a bit softer, then why not take the x flex c-taper and soft step once or twice. Or if you prefer the slightly lighter weight of a 125g shaft (c-taper S+) but want the flex of an X, then why not take the S+ shaft and hard step once? There are many variables when dialing in shafts and to say "Don't hard step or soft step them" is just a silly general statement to put out there.

I personally play with mizzy 68's with c-taper S+ shafts straight in, however my vokey wedges (by the way Mr. Titleist, I also game the 910 drivers and fw woods and a SC putter :)) are the c-taper S+ soft stepped twice which gives it a flex slightly softer than if I was to put the c-taper S straight in. Why would I not just put the c-taper S straight in? For the slightly softer feel of the S+ssx2 versus a S straight in, as well as to maintain the heavier weight of a S+ shaft versus the 5g lighter S shaft.

 

I used to play dg x100, then switched to c taper s with 712 cb. Is there anyway of making the club head slightly heavier, as they feel very differently balanced. I guess this is how the shaft lowers spin, but i feel this looses feel.

Serge N

I used to play dg x100, then switched to c taper s with 712 cb. Is there anyway of making the club head slightly heavier, as they feel very differently balanced. I guess this is how the shaft lowers spin, but i feel this looses feel.

Considering that the C-Taper S weighs about 10g less than the x100 (120g versus 130g for the x100), you will be losing not only the 10g of overall static weight but about 1 swingweight point as well so the overall feel should be "lighter". Regarding how to get the clubhead heavier, you could always use lead tape or when having the c-tapers put in, have tip weights placed in the shaft prior to assembly.

10 g is 1/2 swingweight point.

Lou G

10 g is 1/2 swingweight point.

Sorry, but you're wrong. A 9g weight change to a shaft = 1 SW point change, not a half SW point.

Eric R

Lou G

10 g is 1/2 swingweight point.

Sorry, but you're wrong. A 9g weight change to a shaft = 1 SW point change, not a half SW point.

Eric is spot on - remember c tapers have a higher balance point as well

Eric R

Lou G

10 g is 1/2 swingweight point.

Sorry, but you're wrong. A 9g weight change to a shaft = 1 SW point change, not a half SW point.

I stand corrected.   http://advancedballstriking.com/Swing_weights.pdf

 

 

Does anyone know how the x stiff kbs tours feel and play in comparison to the dg x100, thanx

All the rest of the swingweight parameters I've been right on for some time (grip weight, change in shaft length, head weight change) but got bum info on the uncut shaft weight. 

I did try a KBS C-Taper shaft vs a DG R300 on a G15 7 iron at a fitting station about 6 months ago and they both felt good.  I've basically "grown up" with a DG R300 or TT Lite XL regular and they are a little less of a strain on the pocketbook.  TT LIte XL is equivalent to the ZZ Lite.  In regards to swingweight, sometimes the diff between a light shaft and a DG R300 is minimized because the butt end is thinner (less grip weight = higher swingweight; TT Lite XL vs DG R300 on two identical 6 irons showed a 2 swingweight point diff with the former being higher; the uncut weight @ 43" with TT Lite XL was 128g and the DG R300 was 127 @ 41" and both had parallel shafts).

Just for everybody's info, I got into club making in 2009.  I got some components from Golfsmith and Golf Works and constructed a set of irons, a lob wedge, 3 hybrids and two fairway woods (they had a closeout at Golf Works with Toski Target T-6 7 and 9 wood heads).  During this endeavor I had some assistance with a local fitter/repair person and actually weighed clubs during the process.  So I have a spreadsheet created with lengths and lie angles from the driver down to the X wedge. You might say that I am a bit of a "golf mad scientist" (always been a bit of a tinkerer since youth and it parlayed into a career in the Navy with a follow-on career as an Electrical Engineer).  

Serge N

Does anyone know how the x stiff kbs tours feel and play in comparison to the dg x100, thanx

How a shaft plays and feels is a very individual and subjective thing. However, if you put all the commonly played shafts and compare them against each other using the same method of measuring frequency, such as FCM (rifle's scale?) you can get an idea of how different shaft's match up against others in regards to stiffness. Take a look at: http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/496072-new-and-improved-shaft-chart/ Chart provides comparison across all shafts which might provide some insight into how stiff one shaft will play against another, based on measurable stiffness.

I currently have x100s and I'm going to have c-taper s+ shafts put in a set of AP2 irons...will the swing weight be about the same or will the s+ c-taper shafts decrease the swing weight?  I like a heavy club head, but I'm hesitant about putting c-taper x stiff shafts in if they're too stiff.

Off the top of my head the c-taper S+ is 5g lighter that the X100, with this you will loose 0.5 SW point. You will have to check the balance point as well as I think c-tapers come out another half point lighter.

Titleist should be able to get this weight back up to D2 though with tip weights.