What to put in the bag

Started by : Henry R |

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Henry R


Hi all,

My bag now is a 910d3 at 9.5, 910f 15degree, 910h at 19degrees, 4-pw cb's and 52,56 and 60. A few weeks ago I tried the 3 iron for my set and hit it well but i don't want to take my hybrid out. Is there a different wedge set up that would allow a 3 rion and a hybrid? Any help is appreciated.

Andrew L


I had the same problem and tried using a 46 54 and 60 in my bag and found that the increased gap between my pw and 54 degree was to great and led to alot of awkward distances and my wedge play got pretty loose.

I would therefore recommend a stronger gap wedge in your wedge combination helping you avoid those awkward in between shots with your pw with a wedge set of 46 51 and 58

Michael H


Hi Henry,

I use a 913D3, 3-Wood, (15*) hybrid (18*), 3 - 9 in AP2's, then I have 4 wedges, 46, 50, 54, and 58. Depending on the course I'm playing I will change my set. For example, shorter courses I will take out my hybrid and out 4 wedges in. Longer courses I will take out probably the 50* wedge. I also have a four wood which I carry everywhere and just change as and when, depending on different courses etc. I play a lot of tournaments etc on different courses, Dom to have that option for changes equipment is ideal. If you play at one course only, then poss think about weather conditions. If windy, keep both the longer clubs in the bag. 

Trail and error is the key, you may find sometimes you play golf and not even use the 3 Iron, sometimes it may be you just don't use one of your wedges, but to have the option, is key, it may only be worth a shot a round but over four rounds it can make the difference between winning and finishing runner-up.

Regards,

Michael.

Chris T


Here is what I use and I believe it is just what your looking for.  I use a regular pitching wedge from my set which is 46*, then my vokey 52*, and my vokey 58*.  This is a good way to allow yourself to only use 3 wedges but still cover your gaps well since you have 6* in between each wedge.  Also, I like the loft of the 58* for chipping around the greens.  Hope this helps.

Florian S


What about delofting the 4 iron? Would it make sense? Was just wondering as there is just a 3° gap between the 3 and the 4 iron...

Lou G


Andrew L

I had the same problem and tried using a 46 54 and 60 in my bag and found that the increased gap between my pw and 54 degree was to great and led to alot of awkward distances and my wedge play got pretty loose.

I would therefore recommend a stronger gap wedge in your wedge combination helping you avoid those awkward in between shots with your pw with a wedge set of 46 51 and 58

I carry 11 clubs in my bag (Burner HT driver, 910F 19*, 910H 21 and 27*, AP1 7-PW, SM4 52-12 and 60-10, 7H putter).  I also happen to be reasonably adept at working clubs.  I have SM c-c 50-08 and 54-14 available if I want to revert to 4 wedges.

I carried a 64* wedge of some form or another between 2006 and 2011 and it got used maybe once or twice in 9 holes.  Last year I went from carrying an SM2 60-07 and 64-07 to a SM c-c 62-07 so I carried 50-08, 54-11 and 62-07 for a year,  I briefly tried a SM c-c 58-04 and it rarely got used (at that time I had 5 wedges in the bag; quite frankly that is too many). 

Lou G


I rotate golf courses throughout San Diego County.  The bag I mentioned in my last post keeps things simple and works in a wide variety of conditions.  I have 15 yards spacing between clubs from the19F down to 7 iron, 10 yards between short irons and 15 yards between the wedges. I don't carry a 3 wood because the fairways in the county are cut pretty close and I have a 13 degree loft driver.  Also, previously I carried a 7 wood and 26 hybrid and that did a pretty good job of navigating the golf course (I had a choke shot with the 7W for the in between and also had a choke shot to cover the 6 iron distance with the 26). 

Lou G


Chris T

Here is what I use and I believe it is just what your looking for.  I use a regular pitching wedge from my set which is 46*, then my vokey 52*, and my vokey 58*.  This is a good way to allow yourself to only use 3 wedges but still cover your gaps well since you have 6* in between each wedge.  Also, I like the loft of the 58* for chipping around the greens.  Hope this helps.

This is actually pretty close to old school golf, given that 9 irons then were 45-48*, PW around 50-52* and SW somewhere around 57-59*.   

The Vokey 52-12 has enough bounce for soft sand and can hit OK off tight lies due to the narrow sole.  The 60-10 (which I have bent to 59) is great out of greenside bunkers and works OK on tight lies (but you play a digging shot)..  My current setup is 7* between lofts and that is pretty manageable. I've done plenty of side-by-side comparisons with my 52-12 vs the 50-08 and 54-14.

My honest opinion is to keep the wedge setup AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE.  It really isn't hard to work a PW down - if you hit a 110 yard full swing, an 80 yard full pitch, 50 yard half swing pitch 35 yard 1/4 swing pitch with a full grip, you can have a range of 30-110 yards with one club.  Just follow Dave Pelz' rule of thumb (10 yards for every 1/2 choke on full swing shots, 5 yards per on half swing shots and 2.5 yards per on 1/4 swing shots). 

Even on the longer clubs, 3* between hybrids is almost too ludicrous,   A 3* loft difference is 5-7 yards generally, IF THAT. 

 

Lou G


Lou G

Chris T

Here is what I use and I believe it is just what your looking for.  I use a regular pitching wedge from my set which is 46*, then my vokey 52*, and my vokey 58*.  This is a good way to allow yourself to only use 3 wedges but still cover your gaps well since you have 6* in between each wedge.  Also, I like the loft of the 58* for chipping around the greens.  Hope this helps.

This is actually pretty close to old school golf, given that 9 irons then were 45-48*, PW around 50-52* and SW somewhere around 57-59*.   

The Vokey 52-12 has enough bounce for soft sand and can hit OK off tight lies due to the narrow sole.  The 60-10 (which I have bent to 59) is great out of greenside bunkers and works OK on tight lies (but you play a digging shot)..  My current setup is 7* between lofts and that is pretty manageable. I've done plenty of side-by-side comparisons with my 52-12 vs the 50-08 and 54-14.

My honest opinion is to keep the wedge setup AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE.  It really isn't hard to work a PW down - if you hit a 110 yard full swing, an 80 yard full pitch, 50 yard half swing pitch 35 yard 1/4 swing pitch with a full grip, you can have a range of 30-110 yards with one club.  Just follow Dave Pelz' rule of thumb (10 yards for every 1/2 choke on full swing shots, 5 yards per on half swing shots and 2.5 yards per on 1/4 swing shots). 

Even on the longer clubs, 3* between hybrids is almost too ludicrous,   A 3* loft difference is 5-7 yards generally, IF THAT. 

 

I'm also keeping my 50 and 54 available and still toying around with them and the 52-12 on the practice greens.   The 52 and 54 are neck and neck when it comes to pitching and bunker performance (but find the 54 a little easier to use on a hardpan lie, believe it or not), although I get much better distance on the 52 for full swing shots.  The 50 is much better for bump n run shots on soft greens but only has about 5-7 yards more distance vs the 52 on full swing shots.  

Henry T


You don't wont to mess around with your wedges too much, that could result in big yardage gaps which isn't good. I would suggest the best possiblity is to take the PW out and add a 48* Vokey. Take the 52* out and put a 54* in and the keep the 60* but take the 56* out. this way you will have 6* yardage gaps which is pretty good considering your carrying 3-PW AND a hybrid.

Jacob L


Hey Henry. I have a very similar setup to you. I have a 913 D2,  RBZ 3 wood, 910H hybrid, and 4-PW CB titleist. I had a problem because I wanted to use the 3Iron and I had 52,56,60 wedges. Here's what I did. I got re-fitted to some SM4 and I came out better off with my custom grinded SM4 in 54,58 than my previous 3 TVD wedges. Definitely look into re-lofting your wedges, but don't get to fancy because unless your really good it can really affect distance. 

Lou G


Henry T

You don't wont to mess around with your wedges too much, that could result in big yardage gaps which isn't good. I would suggest the best possiblity is to take the PW out and add a 48* Vokey. Take the 52* out and put a 54* in and the keep the 60* but take the 56* out. this way you will have 6* yardage gaps which is pretty good considering your carrying 3-PW AND a hybrid.

One should think outside the traditional 52-08, 56-11, 60-07 box.   One is that a gap wedge is "nice to have" as is an X wedge (64*).  

Honestly, 54-60 for a SW-LW setup is much better than 56-60.  This allows for more leeway in the wedge setup.  You have a little more fortitude with longer bunker shots.  

The 54 is a great wedge.  I played the SM c-c 54-11 (bent to 55) for 1 1/2 years (when I switched to Eye 2 irons).  I switched to a SM c-c 54-14 when going to AP1 irons (I personally prefer the sole profile of the SM c-c vs the SM4 - the leading edge on the former is sharper and the bottom is a little more round).  

I've been using the SM c-c 50-08 since last summer.   For me, it works better than the 48-06.   The way I have it set up is 35 1/4" length and 49 loft and it has the same swingweight as the 48-06.   It also fit in nicely with an Eye 2 9 iron and AP1 PW (both have 45* lofts).   I've played maybe 4 rounds without it (one time with the 54-14 only and the last 3 using the 52-12) and there is always that ONE shot you wish it was in the bag.  

Lou G


After a bit of extensive practice this AM, my SM c-c 50-08 and 54-14 are back in the bag and the SM4 52-12 is out.  Big thing is less effort on the shots beyond 40 yards and the 54-14 was clearing the lip better on the Miramar practice bunker (plus it was actually easier to hit out of hard sand than the 52-12 - have to play a pitch or cut and not a blast).

jacob l


I also have almost an identical set up to you.. aside that I have a 5-wood in place of a hybrid.. i hated having such a large gap between my 5-wood and 4 iron so i started hitting the 3 iron of the CB and loved it.. as i then ran into the problem of 15 clubs in the bag.. I then took out my 56 degree wedge and bent my 52 degree to 53 and bent my 60 to 59 to compensate for the large gap and then placed the 3-iron in the bag...

hope that helps,

                            Jacob L

Titleist 913D3 9.5 Diamana WhiteBoard 72 S

Titleist 910F 15 Diamana Blue S

Titleist 910F 19 Diamana Blue S

Titleist 710 CB Project X flighted 6.0

Titleist Vokey SM4 53,59

Scotty Cameron Studio Select Newport 2 34"

Lou G


For me, the combination of the 910F 19* (set at A3 - 20.5*) and the 910H 21* (set at A2 - 21*) give the perfect gap (15 yards).  The A3 setting of the fww gives a lower ball flight (because of the draw face angle) and I hit it just as far as any 16 or 17 hybrid.    The A2 setting on the hybrid (because of the .5* open face) gives a little higher ball flight.  I also have a 15 yard gap between the 21 and 27H (which is set at C3); don't carry a 24H because the difference between it and the 27 is maybe 5 yards (even before with my old hybrids, the SQ2 23 and 26 had the same distance gap).  

What worked for me before I got the 910s was a TM Superfast 5-18 fww, 4-21 and 6-27 hybrids.    The 910F hits just as far as the 5-18.   Also played 975F 16.5 and 20.5 fairways for 3 years.   I used to carry a 9 wood and 6H before 2010.   Before I finally found a good 5 hybrid in 2011, I played a persimmon 10 wood as a middle club for a year along with a TM 7 wood.

Along all these lines, may want to consider playing  a 17* fairway.  Carrying a 21 fairway or 21 hybrid would be a matter of personal preference.  This leaves room for 4 wedges.  Even TW uses an 11.5* driver and 19.5* fairway in the bag.  SA carried a 7 wood at one time. If golf pros can carry 7 woods....    Also LT recommended a 6 wood in the golden days of golf for most amateurs. 

I have my irons gapped such that I don't need a 6 iron.  I have my AP1 7-PW spaced 5* apart (31-36-41-46).  My 6 iron is set at 30* (in the event I want to use player irons for the 7-PW).   I also have carried some form of "approach" hybrid (34-35*) since 2006 along with the 7 iron - I get 6 iron distance from a 34H and a ball flight that is all carry (great for sticking greens); they are heavy clubs (my Q3A 34H and my current HL3 persimmon both weighed in at D5 even with a midsize rubber grip) so all you have to do is meet the ball (vs trying to whack a 6 or 7 iron).  My golf bag defies convention but, if it helps to play better golf then so be it.   I use my 7 iron more for punching or pitching in the wind.

 

 

 

Daniel Rimmelzwaan


My bag: TM 10.5* Supertri, swoosh 3w and 5w (replacing the 3w with a 15* 910F for Xmas), 19* 910H, 710 AP1 4-PW, a 52* and 58* Vokeys, all stock regular. 

Using full, 7 and 9 o clock swings I have a really good handle on distances from PW in. My PW is about 110 yards, a full 52 about 80 yards, a full 58 about 60. I practiced hitting to 50 yards with all my wedges, and know fairly well how far to take it back. When Phil came out with his DVDs I practiced flop shots and bunker shots for days. This year I've started working on knowing how to hit low and high shots, and starting to get a handle on how to generate a little spin. I can pretty much play any shot that I need around the green (that is when I can pull them off) and I don't need anything else but the wedges that I have. Putting another wedge in would not add anything to my short game.

My 3w and 5w both go about as far as my 19* 910H. My wife is getting me the 15* 910F for Xmas, and my goal for next season is to learn how to work that club, as well as the hybrid, and figure out how to bridge the gap between driver and my 4i. At that point the only reason that I am keeping the 5w is for fairway bunkers and rocky lies, I don't care if that club gets chewed up. 

Unfortunately I don't have bundles laying around, so even if I wanted to I don't have the cash to stockpile Titleist clubs. Over the past 2 years I've pretty much maximized the quality of my clubs and I'm starting to really learn how to use them. Learning how to manipulate distance and ball flight is a really cool process for me, and it is really starting to give me a lot of confidence. I'll try to hit the 100 yard marker on the range with anything in the bag for instance. It's amazing what it does to your attitude on the course knowing that you can get the 150 yarder under a low branch pretty close to your target :)

I'd say the most important thing is to know the yardages of your clubs, and learn how to play around with that a little bit. Personally I don't sweat it to the degree, there are more factors than loft alone. I'm not good enough to always get it to those numbers anyway. 

Lou G


Daniel R

My bag: TM 10.5* Supertri, swoosh 3w and 5w (replacing the 3w with a 15* 910F for Xmas), 19* 910H, 710 AP1 4-PW, a 52* and 58* Vokeys, all stock regular. 

Using full, 7 and 9 o clock swings I have a really good handle on distances from PW in. My PW is about 110 yards, a full 52 about 80 yards, a full 58 about 60. I practiced hitting to 50 yards with all my wedges, and know fairly well how far to take it back. When Phil came out with his DVDs I practiced flop shots and bunker shots for days. This year I've started working on knowing how to hit low and high shots, and starting to get a handle on how to generate a little spin. I can pretty much play any shot that I need around the green (that is when I can pull them off) and I don't need anything else but the wedges that I have. Putting another wedge in would not add anything to my short game.

My 3w and 5w both go about as far as my 19* 910H. My wife is getting me the 15* 910F for Xmas, and my goal for next season is to learn how to work that club, as well as the hybrid, and figure out how to bridge the gap between driver and my 4i. At that point the only reason that I am keeping the 5w is for fairway bunkers and rocky lies, I don't care if that club gets chewed up. 

Unfortunately I don't have bundles laying around, so even if I wanted to I don't have the cash to stockpile Titleist clubs. Over the past 2 years I've pretty much maximized the quality of my clubs and I'm starting to really learn how to use them. Learning how to manipulate distance and ball flight is a really cool process for me, and it is really starting to give me a lot of confidence. I'll try to hit the 100 yard marker on the range with anything in the bag for instance. It's amazing what it does to your attitude on the course knowing that you can get the 150 yarder under a low branch pretty close to your target :)

I'd say the most important thing is to know the yardages of your clubs, and learn how to play around with that a little bit. Personally I don't sweat it to the degree, there are more factors than loft alone. I'm not good enough to always get it to those numbers anyway. 

One CAN hit a pitch shot with a 5 wood and it goes about 150 yards.   I've also used a 21 H for a low flying half swing shot from 120.  I have a go to 100 yard shot with either the 7 iron or the 34H. 

I have a stinger shot I use on the 200 yard par 3s with the driver (fully choked).

Also, since 2006 I have carried some form of an "approach" hybrid around 32-35* to cover the 6 iron distance (I actually could hit one 160 yards back in 2007).  During 2009-2010 I carried a 38 hybrid that I constructed and it was a go to club between 135-140 (the 7 iron in my set was hard to hit).  I have had a LV HL3 persimmon 34 hybrid in my bag for 2 years now and I use it for 7-8 iron distances where I have to carry and land softly, for the rough and for 135-140 yard par 3s; all I have to do is make contact with the ball and the trick is not to try to swing too hard (since I've gone to AP1s, I have no problem hitting a 7 iron and I have it set up with a 31* loft for 150 yard shots).

While I was trying to find myself with a 5H, I carried lofted woods between 2006-2011.  I used a persimmon 10 wood between 2010 and 2011 for 160 yard distances and carried a 9 wood prior to that for 170 yards. I latched onto an SQ2 26H that I played till this May (with a Superfast 27H followed by my current 910H 27*).   

 

Davey B


I don't personally hit anything below an 8 iron full power. Ever. So, I got rid of my gap wedge to allow for more clubs. When I'm inside 150, I can play any club, it just depends on the trajectory and spin I am looking for. Experiment until you find out what works best for you. I play with guys who give full power to every shot, and do it well, sothey need that solid gap between each club.They couldn't play with my bag, and I'd hate to play with theirs. The beauty of golf is that it's all personal preference.

Daniel Rimmelzwaan


Davey B
The beauty of golf is that it's all personal preference.

here here :) I always enjoy watching people be successful with a different approach

Lou G


Davey B

I don't personally hit anything below an 8 iron full power. Ever. So, I got rid of my gap wedge to allow for more clubs. When I'm inside 150, I can play any club, it just depends on the trajectory and spin I am looking for. Experiment until you find out what works best for you. I play with guys who give full power to every shot, and do it well, sothey need that solid gap between each club.They couldn't play with my bag, and I'd hate to play with theirs. The beauty of golf is that it's all personal preference.

When you don't try to smack the snot out of it, it makes it easier to work clubs.  Also makes it easier to hit greens.  I know that I can get on it and hit the 5 wood 200 yards plus but if I want to drop one on the green I'll hit it 185.  Also, the reason people slice is they try to hit too hard.

I don't try to lay into my short irons.  If I play them like wedges I am pretty consistent hitting greens. 

If I REALLY get lazy, I'll hit an approach shot with my persimmon 34 hybrid vice the 7 or 8 iron.  I've gotten a few birdies with it.

If I had to carry an absolutely esssential golf bag it would be the driver, 910F19*, 910H 27* 8-PW. 54-60 wedges and putter.  I had my highest par count (13 in an 18 hole round) with these, the 34H and 50 wedge.

I played on the high school golf team with laminated 3 and 4 woods, 3-5-7-9 irons. dual wedge and putter.   I used this for 7 years and then my dad handed down his X31 irons (2-PW) and I used them until 2006 (when I started playing after very little golf between 1993-2003 and not playing at all after that).

Quite some time ago I played one of my better golf games with a driver, 7 wood, persimmon 10 wood and 34 hybrid, Eye 2 8-PW, Vokey 54-60-64 wedges and putter.   I had 10 pars in 13 holes (paid for 9 and played 13). 

I think one of my most vicious golf setups was my current driver, TM Burner 7 wood, SQ2 5/26 and 7/34 hybrids, Eye 2 8 and 9 irons, Vokey 50-54-62 wedges and putter. 

Dan C


Henry,


If you don't want to spend money on another wedge, then I would take out the 56* wedge.  I would also suggest playing a few rounds (not tournament rounds of course!) with 15 clubs and see which wedge you use least each round and decide which one you would do best without.  Or you could try substituting wedges around and playing a round without one wedge, and without another the next time.  After a few rounds you could see which wedge you used least and then you would know which wedge to take out.


Hope this helps!

-Dan C.

Lou G


Dan C

Henry,


If you don't want to spend money on another wedge, then I would take out the 56* wedge.  I would also suggest playing a few rounds (not tournament rounds of course!) with 15 clubs and see which wedge you use least each round and decide which one you would do best without.  Or you could try substituting wedges around and playing a round without one wedge, and without another the next time.  After a few rounds you could see which wedge you used least and then you would know which wedge to take out.


Hope this helps!

-Dan C.

My two cents in the wedge arsenal is the Vokey Spin Milled c-c 54-14 is one of the most versatile sand wedges ever made (haven't tried the SM4 version in that loft but tried a 52-12 SM4).  It has enough bounce for the softest bunkers and the sole is narrow enough where you can play it a little further back in the stance and hit off a tight lie.   It also works in hard bunkers and the technique is to not open the blade as much (almost square).  This would replace the 52 and the 56.  I didn't see a lot of difference in performance around the greens between the SM c-c 54-14 and the SM4 52-12 (the latter was actually horrible out of bunkers but where it did have a leg up was full shots and the difference between it and the 50-08 was about 5 yards).

The SM4 60-10 (I've bent it to 59 mainly to maintain a 5* gap between wedges and to lessen the bounce a little - it is more like a sand wedge) is a great wedge also.  It has been my greenside bunker club since May. 

Also in the :"think outside the 48-52-56-60 box" is the 50-08 wedge.  The advantage it has over the 48-06 is the shorter length and heavier swingweight vs the 48 (if you cut it 1/4" to match the sand wedges, the swingweight is still a little heavier than the 48-06).  You may think about this wedge as a replacement for the PW if you use player irons (with the thought being of bending the 9 iron to 44 or 45* and bending the 50 to 49).

If you want to really get good at shotmaking, try playing with 9 clubs.  Something like driver 19F 24H 6-8-PW SW LW P.  For me it is driver 19F 27H 8-PW 54 60 P. 

 

Spencer B


I would suggest getting either a 52 and 56 combo or a 50 degree and 54 degree

Lou G


Spencer B

I would suggest getting either a 52 and 56 combo or a 50 degree and 54 degree

The 50 and 54 is a better combo.  You can bend the 50 down a degree or two and replace the PW with it; you can also bend it to 51 and play it as a gap wedge with enough bounce for long bunker shots in soft sand.  The SM c-c 54-14 is a pretty good all around wedge (sole is pretty narrow and can be played a little back for tight lies and still has enough bounce for soft bunkers).  

Personally, neither the 52 or 56 did the trick for me.  I recently tried an SM4 52-12 (got it used) with the intent of a 3 wedge setup with the AP1 PW, it and the SM4 60-10 (set to 59); while it was great for approach shots, it left a lot to be desired for bunker shots.  I tried a 52-08 back in 2008 and it was really of no added value.   In regards to the 56......  I've been used to using a 55/12 sand wedge probably since 2006 (I played a SM c-c 54-11 bent to 55 last year and found out this year that the 54-14 was more versatile bent to 53). 

Daniel Rimmelzwaan


Lou G
The 50 and 54 is a better combo

I would not say any combination is 'better' than others, it all depends on personal preference. For me, I like my stock 52* and 58* (both have 8* bounce), no bending whatsoever. The AP1 P is 46*, so that gives me consistent gaps. I can hit any shot that I need around the green with those wedges, when I pull them off as intended of course :).

Lou G


Daniel R

Lou G
The 50 and 54 is a better combo

I would not say any combination is 'better' than others, it all depends on personal preference. For me, I like my stock 52* and 58* (both have 8* bounce), no bending whatsoever. The AP1 P is 46*, so that gives me consistent gaps. I can hit any shot that I need around the green with those wedges, when I pull them off as intended of course :).

Absolutely.  Roger that on personal preference.  I have my AP1 P set to 46*.  I tried an SM4 52-12 briefly with the intent of a 3 wedge setup; worked fine for most cases but it wasn't so good out of bunkers so I went back to my SM c-c 50-08 (bent to 49*) and stock 54-14.   I have had an SM4 60-10 (I bent it to 59) and I have gotten extremely proficient with it under many conditions.  I use my 54 as much as possible.  Remember I'm also a bit of a tinkerer.

Daniel Rimmelzwaan


Lou G
Remember I'm also a bit of a tinkerer.

I noticed that about you :) 

Besides the fact that I just don't have the money to go out and buy a bunch of wedges, I am not a good enough player (yet) to feel like tiny equipment tweaks can make a difference, or at least a difference that I will understand, so I approach it as a skill deficiency when I can't pull something off. So with my wedge setup, I took them to a practice facility until I was capable of pulling off the shots that I need. One of the things that I really practice in my short game is hitting the same shot with different clubs, so I can hit 50 yards with all 3 of my wedges. Once I am good enough to say "an extra degree of loft/bounce will cause x effect" and be able to use that in my game, who knows I might start tinkering myself :)

Lou G


Daniel R

Lou G
Remember I'm also a bit of a tinkerer.

I noticed that about you :) 

Besides the fact that I just don't have the money to go out and buy a bunch of wedges, I am not a good enough player (yet) to feel like tiny equipment tweaks can make a difference, or at least a difference that I will understand, so I approach it as a skill deficiency when I can't pull something off. So with my wedge setup, I took them to a practice facility until I was capable of pulling off the shots that I need. One of the things that I really practice in my short game is hitting the same shot with different clubs, so I can hit 50 yards with all 3 of my wedges. Once I am good enough to say "an extra degree of loft/bounce will cause x effect" and be able to use that in my game, who knows I might start tinkering myself :)

Also have another trick - taking advantage of "playability guarantees" offered by Golf Mart.   If you don't like a wedge, return it to the store for full credit within 90 days (be it new or used).  I've also offset the cost of wedges by trading other clubs in (such as trying out hybrids or fairway woods).  Bartering and trading works pretty well. 

I've had the 50-08 for 1 1/2 years now. 

I played a SM c-c 54-11 for a year and a half before selling it (after I found out the 54-14 worked better all around).  I had the 54-11 bent to 55 because I got used to 55-12 as a general sand wedge since 2006. 

I offset the cost of the SM c-c 54-14 and SM4 60-10 by trade ins and selling my Eye 2 irons.  

The SM c-c 54-14  would have to be one of the most versatile sand wedges.   I use it for medium length bunker shots and generally within 50 yards of the pin.   It also has a slightly more round sole vs the SM4 54-14.

 I had the 60-10 bent to 59 after a practice session and was pleased by the results (it has been a pretty lethal wedge for 7 months now and it is now my greenside bunker club).  I would say this is the best sand/lob wedge I've ever owned and I can use it in a wide variety of conditions.  The reason I chose 60-10 is because my homemade lob wedge was also 60-10; however, the SM4 60-10 has a much higher bounce on the leading edge. 

Another great sand wedge was the Tour Chrome 258-12.  I played that one between 2007- 2009 and I used it for probably 80 percent of my short game.  The only shortcoming was longer bunker shots (I briefly had a Vfoil 50* gap wedge that worked well for that but wasn't good for much else).