Cleaning forged irons

i have ap2 712 irons and wondered the best way to clean them after a round of golf and range practice (range ball marks...yikes!!!).  Also, how do you keep the face of iron from fading (the frosted area)?

thanx

I am no chemist to know all those right liquids to use...

As for me I just use plain old water when cleaning my clubs. Soft towel and nylon brush to avoid scratching. And those nice steel bristle brush for the grooves to get out the deep dirts.

Thanks for your input  :)

I read somewhere that dish soap helps with the cleaning and is not bad for clubs so I always use that when cleaning my irons.  I pour warm (slightly warm, but not scalding hot) water in a bucket and add a bit of dish soap then let my clubs sit for about 15 min.  I then scrub with a toothbrush and they look good as new afterward.  Hope this helps.

i typically use water and soft cloth as previously mentioned, but if needed i will add dishwasher soap.  not sure if it's the best or not, but it will help take out the heavy stuff.

Best thing I found is a bucket of warm water and a soft nylon brush. It will clean the grooves and remove the dirt and grass. Use a soft towel to dry them so that over time rust will not build up on any of the clubs.

Wilson N

I read somewhere that dish soap helps with the cleaning and is not bad for clubs so I always use that when cleaning my irons.  I pour warm (slightly warm, but not scalding hot) water in a bucket and add a bit of dish soap then let my clubs sit for about 15 min.  I then scrub with a toothbrush and they look good as new afterward.  Hope this helps.

I don't know if it was Titleist, but somewhere I read that you only want to use soap/mild abrasive with a cloth.  Soaking up as far as the hosel may allow dampness to get into the epoxy.  Or maybe it was my pro shop after I brought in a shaft and an 8 iron head for reattachment.   .....I used to soak the heads for 5-10 minutes when I would put all in a bucket and take each out to scrub and set aside.

 If you have one piece cavity or muscle back irons like CB's or MB's, you can put the head into water up to the ferrule (not above).If you have a multi piece head such as AP1's or AP2's, you don't want to submerged it into water as the water may seep into the head. 

A damp cloth with mild soap and water should be just fine for wiping down the head and using a toothbrush to clean the grooves works well.  Just make sure the head and grooved are dried thoroughly.

I never knew that Cathi, but it makes perfect sense.  Thank you very much for posting.

To Cathi and TT, thanks for the advise.  Hope to take care of my AP2 712's for a long time, they are really sweet clubs.

Thanks for the heads up. I now have to change the way I clean my AP2s

I clean my AP2s with a clean brush and a wet wash cloth and dry them with a dry bath towel ensuring they are dry.  I DO NOT soak them in water.  NOTE:  Use a wet wash cloth to clean grips as well.  Great cleaning cloths.....

I spray the face with windex, clean then with a toothbrush, dip them in a bucket of water and wipe them down.  I'm pretty sure the windex does nothing, but it makes me feel like I've done more.  Also, the only way I see them not losing the "frosted" appearance is by not hitting them.  Good luck with that!

808hacker; I have the 912AP1's and the best way I've found to clean them is get yourself one of those club cleaning brushes that have the nylon bristles on one side and the bronze bristles on the other side.  Take your clubs to the kitchen or bath sink, and use a bar of bath soap. Wet your club head, and nylon bristles with warm water from the faucet, then rub the bar soap with the nylon bristles until you have a good amount of soap on them, then scrub the entire club head with that soapy brush. If there are tough spots or ball marks that won't come off, then use the bronze bristles for those spots, then rinse with clean water, and dry with a cloth or paper towel. Use a damp wash cloth to clean your grips.

Hi 808HACKER,

I have a post game ritual of cleaning my clubs. Each time, I use a soft microfiber cloth with water. I find soap is not necessary, since metal is not porous enough to really need to break down the water tension. You can go high end microfiber, but most any department store's microfiber rags will do fine. (I save the high end microfiber cloths to detail my car)

For heavier ball marks on short irons, I will sometime use Mr. Clean's Magic Eraser, following the instructions on the box. This product works great on any club to remove tee paint from the soles.

I don't have deep cavity irons, but if you are concerned with water drying in the crevasses and leaving sediments,  you may want to pick up an air compressor or cans of compressed air (think keyboard air duster). My local car detailer uses an air compressor to blow out a lot of the water that hides between car panels. It does wonders. Just be careful with the compressed air cans, as you can freeze your fingers. 

Don't forget to clean your grips as well. A bit of simple green, warm water, and a little bit of scrubbing will remove the oils and salts from the rubber that have been soaked up from your hand(s). I find it works better than the old fashion way of sanding the grips.

The frosted area on the face is created by sand/glass-bead blasting to create a fine texture. So the only way to prevent that from going away is to not scrub it down with too harsh of an abrasive, or hit balls....good luck with that!

Michael U