For Quintin - even back in the 1970s, golfers had trouble hitting 3 irons. The rage at the country club I caddied at in 1972-1973 was a Ben Hogan 6 wood. There was also an old guy whose entire bag (except for the 8-SW irons) was Northwestern laminated fairway woods. For me, a 5 hybrid is probably one of the greatest things since sliced bread and I can work it from 145-165 yards and it is much less work to choke down halfway at 150 vs trying to hit a 6 iron at that distance. I am super consistent with my 7 iron and shorter and pretty accurate. I have a certain slightly downhill 175 yard par 3 that I use it on and it lands on the dance floor just about every time. For all the hype I hear about how great a 2 or 3 iron hybrid is, I find a 7 wood a lot easier to hit and can work it a little. I hit the green on quite a few of the longer par 3s with it. I am quite capable of hitting it over 200 yards if I really get into it but the normal shot is 175-180.

There are more and more Pro's moving to Hybrids, the big differance is like with all the clubs in their bags. They spend hours fitting their clubs and making sure the distance gaps are covered and that if they need to swop clubs for a specific event, then they bag is covered. we buy clubs because we hit them well of sometimes have it fitted or a lot of people fit their own clubs but they do not cover the distance gaps. I have a 3 irons and a 20 " hybrid. the Hybrid cover the gap between 3 wood and 3 iron. this leaves me with a big gap between 3# and 3H. I sometimes replace the 3 iron with 5 fairway metal (wood) to cover the gap between 3 wood and 3hybrid when I play long courses or in winter. Pro's will not cover gaps by having to play half shots, cannot consistantly controll the distance. Look at Rickey Foulers bag. He carries two Adams Hybrids to cover gap between 4 iron and 3 wood. His 4 iron is bend to play like a 4 1/2 iron and the lofts on his irons are bend such that they cover the gaps 15 yrds between clubs. This is the case with most Pro's. My point, mix and match your set to cover the gaps to ensure you play to the course set up we play and give you confidance in your equipment. Confidance is the key to good golf.

Lou

Back in the 70's all the tour pros were using 2i's, and a bunch using 1i.

Even I could hit a one iron in the 1980s and used it as a teeoff club since I could hit it 250+ yards. In regards to my setup.... part of playing good golf involves working smarter and not harder. Toss clubs that don't work or are of no added value. Quite frankly, my 7 wood ( Burner 2007) goes farther than a lot of 3 woods and I just about never miss with it. Ditto with the 5H and the 7 iron down. I have a gap of 15 yards between the 7W and 5H and 20 yards between the 5H and 7 iron. I also have a 15 yard gap between the 9 iron (45*) and 50 wedge (my set W differs from the 50 by only 5 yards and has limited use due to its composite grind sole). I can choke down 1/2" on the 7W, 5H or 9 to cover the gaps. I'm working a G10 draw 4/17 wood into the mix to cover the 180 - 200 yard par 3s (these distances are between my driver and 7 wood so I use the latter and get down in 2 for the pars). A lot of amateurs cannot hit a 3 wood and it isn't exactly easy to hit on the fairway unless the ball is sitting on a plush lie. In regards to pros not having consistency with half shots.... (or choking down), they swing so hard that they probably would lose their balance on an effectively shortened club. Another part of good golf is being able to work a club if the situation dicatates (such as a choked 7 iron instead of a 9 into the wind).

Continuing on...... Another part of good golf is working with your limitations. Remember that what works for golf professionals may not work for most amateurs. Pros can launch a 13 degree fairway wood off the grass with relative ease. Most of them hit a pitching wedge as far as the average person hits a 6 iron. A lot of amateurs would fare better with a 4 wood vs a 3 wood (the distance diff is maybe 5-7 yards) or a 7 wood vs a 5 wood (again minimal distance diff). If you look at a few forums across the Net, there are quite a few that find a 7 wood much easier to hit than a 3H. Also, a lot of us don't have 100+ mph swing speeds and can't do the "big 90 degree backswing" anymore. Since I've switched to a compact backswing (sort of between the Don Trahan and Stack N Tilt), my ball striking and consistency has improved immensely. Reading a comment about Jakes switching to a 43" driver..... Don Trahan (the father of DJ Trahan) had a system called "Peak Performance Golf" (the predecessor to Revolution Golf - now Jim McClean is on their staff) recommended a 43.5" driver. Even Jim McClean recommends a 44" driver with 10* loft and regular flex for most amateurs. I had a Titleist 975D and G2 set to 44" - the Titleist didn't get great distance but it went very straight IF HIT PROPERLY; theG2 had a Grafalloy Pro Launch Blue and I was pretty consistent but tended to hit a power fade and the swingweight was C8. Also played with a TM 300 set to 43.5" and it went dead straight but I struggled to hit it 210 yards. Since I have gone to the Burner Draw HT loft M flex driver with 45" shaft, I have been actually getting better distance than a 10.5 neutral driver (and I find the fairway about 75% of the time). Anything over 45" is way too long, even for someone like me (who is 6'1"). My dad is 6'2" (but has long arms) and uses a 43.5 or 44" driver and, at 77, still outdrives quite a few people.

Lou G

While I do agree that a 3 wood is not one of the easiest clubs to hit, I find that I can get better distance with a 7 wood vs an 18 or 19H. Even a 16H has a minimal difference in distance for me vs a 7W. There are some times when I hit a 7 wood as far as or farther than a 3 wood - so I took the latter out. Also, a 7 wood is easy to work because the shaft length is rather short for a fww (41-42"). 3W aren't exactly the easiest to control because the newer ones almost have the same length as an old persimmon driver. I consider a 5H a very potent weapon, so much so that I removed the 6 iron and hit a half choke shot with the hybrid. A 5H also works better than a lofted fairway wood. There are some pros that use a 7 wood (Stuart Appleby comes to mind and one or two others on "Playing Lessons From the Pros"). There are some 2H and 3H that approach a fairway wood in shaft length.

What I meant to say instead of "half choke shot" is a shot where I choke down the handle halfway (about 1/2" or so) - it is still a full swing; to avoid confusion that I would be choking down and taking a half swing.

Lou G

While I do agree that a 3 wood is not one of the easiest clubs to hit, I find that I can get better distance with a 7 wood vs an 18 or 19H. Even a 16H has a minimal difference in distance for me vs a 7W. There are some times when I hit a 7 wood as far as or farther than a 3 wood - so I took the latter out. Also, a 7 wood is easy to work because the shaft length is rather short for a fww (41-42"). 3W aren't exactly the easiest to control because the newer ones almost have the same length as an old persimmon driver. I consider a 5H a very potent weapon, so much so that I removed the 6 iron and hit a half choke shot with the hybrid. A 5H also works better than a lofted fairway wood. There are some pros that use a 7 wood (Stuart Appleby comes to mind and one or two others on "Playing Lessons From the Pros"). There are some 2H and 3H that approach a fairway wood in shaft length.

Over the weekend, I put my 34H back in the bag and it covers the gap nicely between the 5H and the 7 iron. For those that haven't read any of my posts in the forums before, I have a persimmon 34 deg approach hybrid that I got from Louisville Golf last year - I cut it 1/2" but gain more workability (I was hitting it 160 yards before and now 150 but I gained quite a bit of workability; I've had an "approach hybrid" of one type or another (Snake Eyes Q3A 34 and 38 hybrids and and Q4A 39 hybrid - these are do-it-yourself; also had a Pinemeadow Excel Strong 7/35 for a year)since 2007 and they are pretty nifty (things like plowing out of thick grass at short distances or as a backup when you develop problems with short irons). As long as one swings smoothly, they work great.

Great advice and well said Jakes - finding your distances adn adjusting the set to fill the gaps makes a huge diffrence. It's almost funny to note how many people's clubs go almost the same distance.

Jakes has some good advice. I've actually simplified my wedge setup (50-08, 54-11, 62-07; the former two are 1* weak so I get the added bounce). Like he said, it is all about confidence - go with what works every time. I've personally found 7W, 5H, 7-9 irons, and my Vokeys a pretty lethal setup. I have a rather lofted driver (Burner Draw HT) but I hit it farther than the standard 10.5* neutral driver. At this point, the 4W and 34H are "along for the ride".

I have actually noticed a lot of pros going back to a 2 iron, many the 503i (Stallings, Stanley & Woodland). As pros are becoming stronger (due to S&C techs) we may see a few more back on tour. Myself I havnt been able to find a hybrid that I can keep down.

I have a golfing partner that can't hit a hybrid at all but can launch a 3 iron off the fairway with ease. For me, anything above a 20H is not worth carrying because I smoke my 7 wood [it has blown away one of those new-fangled multi-adjustable 2/17 hybrids, several 3 and 4 woods (including a Sumo SQ 4, a G10 Draw 4, and even a 2007 Burner 3W)].

Thats why I've gone to a 2 iron, I prefer just a slice of metal!

This would probably change if titleist offered a heavy low spin shaft like the matix hm2 Lt, diamana thump or rip 105, I hit moon balls with my 21* 910H V2 104x.